Savour the taste of old Prague

HIDDEN GEMSDON'T BE SURPRISED to run into Mirek Topolánek, the Czech prime minister, and his entire cabinet when you walk into U Vladare restaurant in Prague.

This little known (to tourists, at least) eatery is the favoured spot of those in the know.

There's been something of a tourist gold-rush to Prague over the last few years, and any number of mediocre restaurants catering to bland Northern European tastes have opened up to meet the demand.

But at U Vladare, you're getting the authentic Czech deal. Dating back to 1776, the ambience here is not so different from the 18th century - all very stylish and swish with nothing modern looking to disturb the mood.

Made up of four distinct parts, there's a fabulous wine cellar, the main restaurant, a club area and an inviting summer terrace. Do try and take in the full experience, except maybe for the club part which has a rather idiosyncratic approach to music.

The big draw here - vegetarians look away now - is the wild game on offer. Deer and venison are a very big deal for the Czechs, being something of a delicacy to be savored. You may not want the waiter to go into too much graphic detail about what happened that resulted in what is now lying on your plate, but if you get over your squeamishness, the food is excellent.

Located not that far away from the famous Charles Bridge, this is a true carnivore's delight and the staff here really know their stuff.

You don't really need a map to find it - any Prague resident will give you precise directions. And prices are very reasonable, especially compared to Irish restaurants.

U Vladare, 10 Maltézské námestí, Mala Strana, Prague, 00-420-241443609 www.uvladare.cz